Corkscrew Chronicles: Why I promote Ohio wines

I am often questioned why I am so supportive of Ohio wines when I have tasted, cellared and worked with an extreme number of quality, global products. It could be attributed to Ohio being my native state, though origin alone does not determine my significant interest. Simply put, I came to realize that there are quality releases being made right here, literally in our own backyard. Ohio originally built its reputation for its sweetly finished Labrusca varietals (Catawba, Concord, Delaware and Niagara). While these wines are still being produced (and many in updated, elegant, refined styles), the news is there are also many fine, complex quality wine examples made with European vinifera wine grapes and French/American hybrids in sweet to dry styles. In our state, there are all three types of grapes being grown, including some fine new hybrids that are extremely cold-tolerant. The vast array of grapes being nurtured opens up the potential to make a wide range of excellent wines, including sparkling, whites, roses, red and dessert wines. One of the more recent style developments thanks to our cold winters is the consistent production of superior ice wines. If you have a favorite wine style, be assured that there are lovely examples made in Ohio. Long ago, I received an invitation to a Madison, Ohio, tasting where Clive Cotes, master of wine, was guest speaker. A St. Joseph Winery (now Baci Winery) pinot noir reserve with fruit grown, fermented and matured in Madison was featured. Cotes was both visibly surprised and impressed with the wine. Along with Allan Klingshirn introducing me to a lovely Seyval blanc, and Arnie Esterer's exceptional releases, these experiences demonstrated Ohio's exceptional potential for fine wine production. Northern Ohio is blessed with the moderation factors from Lake Erie and the Grand River. Their heat accumulation, air movement and protection from extremes of temperature and weather enable quality wine grapes to grow in our severe winters and short growing season. New grape crossings and clones that tolerate brutally cold weather have been and are being developed in cold climate origins like Canada and Minnesota. They offer fewer chances of tender buds being damaged and maturing vines being wiped out by lingering cold temperatures and polar vortexes. They also allow quality wine production beyond Lake Erie's moderating influences. Ohio's short season, often with simply adequate heat accumulation, results in wines of elegance and grace, perfect to sip on their own and to complement your daily meals. The quality of Ohio winemaking has significantly evolved. Passionate winemakers have skillfully honed their craft, establishing traditions of excellence. A new generation of highly educated, enthusiastic winemakers have also arrived, many continuing their family's viticultural history. The market is full of complex, rewarding Ohio releases, many winning awards and medals in national and international tastings. There are also unique, exciting wine style variations that have started as an experiment, eventually becoming star attractions. Land prices are a fraction of other wine regions, enabling winegrowers to own estate vineyards and control all aspects of fruit quality. Ohio's outstanding grape production potential is also being recognized by many well-known, established producers looking for new venues. With 5 viticultural areas and close to 323 wineries, any Ohioan can visit a working producer in the course of a day trip. Mingling with winery people will awaken wine passions and interest, a vital part of the discovery of fine regional products. A winery tour can uncover new favorite wines, build a connection to hometown products that are legal to ship within state boundaries and enable you to support local, small businesses.Be Ohio proud! Savor and share Ohio wines. Gary Twining is a certified wine educator who worked 34 years in the wholesale fine wine industry. Email him at winingwithtwining@hotmail.com.