CORKSCREW CHRONICLES: Wine quality/quantity starts in the vineyard

Winemaking is much more than fermentation and maturation of ripe grapes. There are numerous decisions to be made by the grape grower that can directly affect the quality in the fruit and quantity of the final wine. Here are a few important ones: Site selection – Determines yield and quality potential for vineyards. Frost-free days, extreme temperatures, precipitation/available water, wind/breezes and moderating influences all affect the final fruit and wine characteristics. Site preparation – Old roots can sustain pests that affect the longevity of the vine. Fumigation/root removal can reduce pest populations. Deep ripping of the site encourages drainage and vine root development. Drainage tiles regulate available vineyard water in regions with high rainfall, as in northern Ohio. Soil preparation – Highly fertile soils can be tempered by planting wheat or grass cover crops to deplete nitrogen or increase levels by mowing and tilling them under, incorporating them into the soil. Compost can be added to infertile soils, also helping retain water in dry climates. Nutrient uptake can vary based on soil pH and the specific nutrient. Reduction of soil acidity can be accomplished by adding lime before planting. Limestone subsoils might require iron sprays to the vine leaves to ensure adequate iron uptake, as limestone absorbs iron quickly. Weed and grass removal is vital to ensure adequate nutrients and water for the vines. Irrigation/drainage choices appropriate for the specific soil and climate need to be made. Rootstock choices – Offer tolerance to different pests and soil compositions. Vitus berlandieri has a wide root angle and is tolerant to thin, moist soils. Vitus rupestris is lime tolerant and has a tighter root angle, sending its roots deeper, reducing the impact of drought and heavy rains. There are rootstocks to choose from that tolerate many other challenges. Vine scion – Vine varietal and clone choices for quality wine production that grow well in the site need to be selected. The type of trellis helps express the nutritional vigor of the site, preventing/encouraging shading on leaves and fruit and simplifying vineyard operations and harvest processes. Vineyard orientation – North / south orientations catch the most sunlight. Sunlight and temperature can be tasted in the fruit — evidenced by the difference in ripeness between fruit on opposite sides of the vine. Steep slopes often dictate that the vines be planted mirroring the land's contour, to prevent erosion and make vineyard work and fruit picking easier. Hot climates might orientate vine rows 45 degrees from north / south to help temper the intensity of sunlight. Vine spacing - A 1:1 ratio between height of the vine and space between rows prevents shading to intercept maximum sunlight and wind exposure. A 6-foot vine trellis would suggest a 6 foot row width. The space between vines will vary depending on the vigor of the varietal, soil fertility, climate and rainfall, to balance filling the trellis and preventing leaf and fruit shading. Vines are pruned to fill the trellis and manage yield. There needs to be room to accommodate machinery maneuvers on row ends and for staging trucks and grape gondolas during harvest. Pest programs – Choices include specific or combination of chemicals, organic/biodynamic treatments or simply patience and accepting some loss of crop. Challenges of humidity, weather, insects/predator control and weeds are considered. Pests and diseases have less habitat if the vine canopy is open to breezes, which also enables higher spray effectiveness. Weeds can be controlled by machine tilling and mowing to reduce herbicide use. Featured wine – Ferrante Estate pinot noir 2024, Grand River ($23) – Pale ruby hue. Pretty strawberry and tart red fruit aromas / flavors with mineral and oak vanillins. Long finish, moderated tannins, balanced acidity. Gary Twining is a certified wine educator who worked 34 years in the wholesale fine wine industry. E-mail him at winingwithtwining@hotmail.com.