Column: An ancient grape finds a new following

For those of you who have examined fine wine grapes at ripeness, you know the skins contain color pigments and the flesh and resulting juice is clear. To get color into the juice it has to have contact with the skins. The color is transferred by the length of contact time (steeping), manipulation of the skins (pumping over, punching down, carbon dioxide bubbling during fermentation) or heat of the ferment. There are some five grape varietals that belong to the Teinturier category, literally "stainer", where both flesh and juice are colored and can add a deeper hue to the wine. Petit Verdot is one Teinturier you probably have encountered. Another is an ancient grape from the beginnings of wine's existence, much less well-known but growing in popularity, the Saperavi. Saperavi originated in the Republic of Georgia, a former province of Russia located between the Black and Caspian Seas. This region is believed to be where wine making first occurred, around 8,000 years ago. With its dark flesh, Saperavi can give wines intense color, harmonious flavors and firm acidity, and it is extremely cold hardy, making it an attractive varietal for cold climates where many reds lack color, such as Lake Erie, Niagara River and New York's Finger Lakes districts. It also is valued for blending due to its intensity of dark pigmentation which also involves powerful anti-oxidant properties for the wine consumer. Saperavi is more disease resistant than many other varietals due to its loose grape clusters. It also effectively reflects the personality of origin, a big plus for people looking for uniqueness and a sign of distinction. The grape is very versatile, used to make wines in a variety of styles from dry to semi-sweet. In this regard, it is similar to Zinfandel. It has also been compared to Syrah for its color, power, robust style and ability to age. Aromas of ripe dark fruit, spice, earth and smoke notes are possible with flavors of cherry, blackberry, blackcurrant and plum. In 2006 on 31 acres on the Niagara Lake Plain, Jim and Kathy Baker started Chateau Niagara Winery, producing both high quality and well-known Vinifera wines as well as some exotic varietals. They are big proponents of Saperavi, making a rose, a dry red and a dessert wine named "Kagor". Chateau Niagara's rose ($18) is made without skin contact, using just the color in the juice for the pink hue in the wine. Its notes of strawberry, red raspberry, rhubarb and watermelon suggest matching with light, summer entrées, such as fish, summer salads, grilled chicken, appetizers and charcuterie selections. The dry red ($30) is traditionally made and won 92 points and a gold medal in the American Fine Wine Competition. Enjoy with fine red meats, game, stews, full-flavored entrées, poultry and cheeses. The Kagor ($20) is a 14.5 percent dessert wine with rich cherry and cassis notes that is recommended to be paired with dark or bittersweet chocolate. Near Lake Erie there are two known wineries producing Saperavi wines. To our west, Vermilion Valley Vineyards uses Saperavi for color and complexity in blended wines. To the East, St. Joseph Vineyards is currently pouring a limited release of their Saperavi at the winery. If you are looking for different and enjoyable, this wine just might be your ticket. Chateau Niagara Winery Saperavi (New York) — Lovely depth of color with a purple-ruby hue. Aromas and flavors of blackberry, boysenberry and dark fruit with pepper and firm yet not excessive acidity. Balanced, flavorful and approachable, an attractive red for now or to age for a few years.